Moorea

Moorea

Moorea
Moorea

 The natives of Moorea (pronounced muh-o-ray-uh), are proud of the beautiful topography of their island and rightfully so!  Volcanic mountains rise above the shimmering water surrounding this isle.  A thin, very bumpy paved road encircles the mass.  But it is soon obvious that those who live on this tiny island in the South Pacific have a chip on their shoulders.

Getting there:

You get to this island the same way you get to Bora Bora, fly from LA to Tahiti then connect to Moorea.  There are two airlines that fly between Tahiti and the U.S., Air France and Air Tahiti Nui.  The inter-island airline is Air Tahiti…not to be confused with Air Tahiti Nui (nui means large).  They are not the same company.  The airport in Moorea is quite small and a little primitive as you might expect.  Don’t plan on eating here!

After collecting our bags, we headed to prearranged transportation provided by our tour operator.  (This is another good reason to book your travel to the South Pacific through an agent who is familiar with the area.)  Our bus made stops at several hotels along the way.  Despite the fact that it was only mid-morning, it was very hot and humid.  We had been traveling now for close to 20 hours from the time we left our home so we were very tired, yet excited to be reaching our hotel for the next three nights.  Note:  if you have back problems or any medical condition that requires you to avoid being jostled around, do not go to Moorea!  The road is VERY rough and bumpy.  With all the rain they get, it is almost impossible for them to keep the road repaired!!

Staying there:

We arrived at the beautiful Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort and Spa and were welcomed with a cool, damp wash cloth and glass of champagne.  Due to our early arrival, our room was not yet ready.  But we were offered a courtesy room for an hour where we could shower and change into our swim suits.  Shortly after having a lovely lunch at their restaurant by the beach, we were taken to our villa.  Our room was huge and we had a private deck with a small pool.  The bathroom was large with a separate tub and shower and sinks which overlooked our bedroom.  The villa had vaulted ceilings.  We had TV which offered one or two English speaking channels.  The rest were in French.

Villa at the Hilton
Villa at the Hilton

Our breakfast was included and was a nice buffet.  The food was excellent!  They rotated specials and I truly looked forward to breakfast every morning.

The Hilton resort is a lovely property with a pool near their beach.   The beach is small, but offers kayaks and other water sports.

 Who All Is There?

We met quite a few honeymooners who were going on to Bora Bora.  Yet there seemed to be a lot of other couples our age as well.  We do not remember seeing any families at our hotel.

Eating There:

But our favorite part of this resort was the Toatea Creperie and Bar which is housed in a bungalow over the water. We did not eat dinner here.  But for 3 glorious nights we shared a banana crepe made by the head chef

Crepes at Toatea Creperie and Bar
Crepes at Toatea Creperie and Bar

himself in front of us!  It was like the best Banana’s Foster you’ve ever had wrapped in a dinner plate size tender crepe.  The accompanying view of reef sharks that gathered in the water below the restaurant added to the ambiance.  Each evening the sharks circled around waiting to be fed much like we circled around the restaurant to find a seat at the bar and watch our chef go to work for us!

Also at our Hilton, we ate lunch at the Rotui Grill and Bar and went to happy hour at Eimeo Bar.  This is a great location for sunset pictures!

Our first night in Moorea, we ate at Rudy’s.  We were a little taken aback by the simplistic design of the restaurant.  It didn’t look like anything fancy and in fact looked a little sparse.  We wondered if we had maybe misunderstood the recommendation.  But the food and the warmth of the owners more than made up for the surroundings.  We both had their specialty, Parrot Fish, which was delicious.  While waiting for our dinner, we met three newlywed couples at the table next to ours.  Two of these couples also stayed at our hotel in Bora Bora.  We enjoyed Rudy’s so much that we returned on our final night in Moorea and had another fabulous meal.

The second night in Moorea we ate at the Moorea Beach Café.  This is right on the ocean so I would suggest going before sunset to enjoy the view.  The ambiance is fantastic at this restaurant and the food was equally good.

A couple of random tips on eating and drinking in Moorea:

We were told upon checking in at our hotel to not drink the tap water including the water at our hotel.  They even cautioned us to brush our teeth with bottled water.  So we did not have ice in our drinks nor did we eat any local produce.

Miscellaneous info:

Make sure to go to Moorea in the non-rainy season and even then, it may rain as it did for two of our three days there!  The day it did not rain, we took Dr. Poole’s Dolphin and Whale Tour.   You will see and learn a lot on this tour.  However, I have two alerts.  First, Dr. Poole accepts cash only on his tours.  Somehow we missed this and were not prepared.  Dr. Poole finally (after making us feel awful) let us ride along as we promised to go directly back to the hotel after the tour was over and cash some traveler’s checks to pay him.  When we arrived home, I checked the website my husband had used to find information about this tour and read his emails to and from Dr. Poole and saw no mention of the cash only requirement.  Dr. Poole is extremely knowledgeable about marine life in these waters and he will constantly remind you of how smart he is.  It got old hearing this and detracts from the tour.  We finally saw a whale and some baby dolphins and my husband swam with the sharks and rays, (an added bonus because we had not been successful in finding the whales).  Second warning is that this is a fairly small boat and the water can be choppy.  Several people on our trip became ill.

Summary:

Moorea is a beautiful island.  It reminded me of a primitive Hawaiian island in topography.  As I said in the beginning, many on the island have a chip on their shoulders regarding their more glamorous neighbor, Bora Bora and refer to it as Bora Boring!  I am glad we saw the juxtaposition of the two islands and would definitely recommend that if you go to both, visit Moorea first.

Sunset in Moorea
Sunset in Moorea

 

 

 

 

Bora Bora: Sapphire of the Pacific

SONY DSC
Mount Otemanu

Known as the Pearl of the Pacific, I have renamed it the Sapphire of the Pacific due to the sparkling blue water surrounding it.  Yes, this island should be at the top of your bucket list and yes, it was on the top of mine!  Anyone who loves water and relaxation will fall in love with Bora Bora and dream of going back…someday, maybe not soon enough, though.

Getting there:

There are two airlines that fly between Tahiti and the U.S., Air France and Air Tahiti Nui.  We were told to avoid Air France which turned out to be a wise choice since they were threatening to strike during the time we were in Bora Bora- not quite two years ago.  Air Tahiti Nui flies from LAX to Tahiti.  Since the flight takes right around 8 hours and leaves close to midnight, I strongly suggest flying Business Class which is their First Class.  That also gives you access to their First Class lounge both at LAX and Tahiti and that happens to be the only area in the Tahiti airport with air conditioning!  Of course both lounges offer complimentary beverages, alcoholic and non-alcoholic, and various types of food depending on the time of day. Another perk to Business Class is a separate check-in line.  This came in handy at both airports as the lines were long.  We allowed a lot of time in LA from our point of origin in order not to miss our flight to Tahiti.  We schlepped our bags over to the international terminal only to find that the Air Tahiti Nui counter would not open until a few hours before their first flight out.  With no boarding passes, we were forced to wait outside of security for several hours near the only bar in the bowels of the international terminal.  Not exactly how we imagined the start to our dream trip.  The time difference between LA and Tahiti is 3 hours so you arrive very early in the morning…before sunup!  That is helpful if you are traveling on to another island in French Polynesia.

We went on to Moorea (I will review in a future blog) for 3 nights before heading to Bora Bora.  The inter-island airline is Air Tahiti…not to be confused with Air Tahiti Nui (nui means large).  They are not the same company.  The airports in Moorea and Bora Bora are quite small and a little primitive as you might expect.  Don’t plan on eating at these airports either!  Reserve a window seat.  The views are incredible!

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Hilton Bora Bora’s Yacht

The first thing you will notice upon entering the Bora Bora airport is that there are boats docked outside.  That’s it…just boats; no cabs, no cars, no buses.  After collecting your bags, instead of rental car company signs, you look for your hotel sign directing you to its boat slip.  We boarded the Hilton’s yacht and completed the check-in process for our room before disembarking.  Once our paperwork was finished, we were given a cold bottle of water and told to go up on deck and enjoy the approximately 30 minute boat ride to the hotel.

Breathtaking is not a good enough adjective for the sight we were witnessing.  My favorite color happens to be blue and I saw shades of it that I had never seen before!  Perhaps it is the reflection of the sky into the water that makes the Pacific shimmer in unseen before blues.  And briefly I wondered if I had died and gone to heaven where it is said there are colors we’ve never seen before.  I asked my husband to verify that we were indeed alive as a tear rolled down my cheek at the sheer beauty in front of me. He said it didn’t matter.  Wherever we were, he wasn’t going back home!

Just as he said that, the main island of Bora Bora with its distinctive Mount Otemanu came into view.  Bora Bora is a grouping of three land masses:  a thin crescent-shaped island where the airport and most of the main hotels are, the main island with its Mount Otemanu jetting up to the sky, and the island just to the south where our hotel was located.  The Hilton is the only hotel on that island and this resort faces south overlooking the vast expanse of the Pacific.

Staying there:

Most people stay on the crescent-shaped island which hosts a vast array of 5 star resorts, many with over-the-water bungalows.  We chose the Hilton Bora Bora because we are Hilton Honors members and thought we could either cash in some of our points or accumulate a lot of points.  Due to the fact that we booked our hotel and air through a travel agent, we were able to do neither…still a sore point with both of us.  It would have been difficult booking our inter-island air flights had we not used a Tahitian travel agent.  Nevertheless, be aware if you choose that avenue in booking your travel, you may forgo points at your hotel!

Hilton Bora Bora
Hilton Bora Bora

The Hilton gives you a lovely welcome when the boat docks at their hotel.  (I won’t provide all the details so that you will have a nice surprise after your long trek!)  We were whisked away in a golf cart to our over the water bungalow.  This type of room is a must!!  It was the most beautiful room I have ever stayed in.  There is glass in the end tables in your living area so you can look at the ocean below.  Both the living area and bedroom open up onto your deck which also has another glass panel to view the ocean or you can walk down the ladder to your floating dock and hop in!  It is like living on top of an aquarium stocked with the most colorful fish you’ve ever seen!  The bathroom was huge with a separate shower room and a soaking tub which….you guessed it…had a narrow window next to it so you could see the ocean below.  My sweet husband had researched the property before our trip and decided that the better views were in bungalows over the deeper water.  (We got a lot of exercise walking to the main part of the hotel every morning for breakfast.)

Our breakfast was included and was a nice buffet or you could order off the menu.  You can opt for a meal plan that includes lunch and dinner, but what we heard from others who did choose this option, made us glad we did not.

The Hilton resort is a gorgeous property with a double infinity pool next to their beach.  Their spa is located on top of a hill…get a golf cart to pick you up so you aren’t sweating when you get there!  We had a couples massage in a huge room with a private soaking tub.  You can also get an outdoor massage.  Do take your camera because there are a lot of scenic points we would have missed if we hadn’t gone up to the spa.

 Who All Is There?

Our sons made fun of me when they were in high school because when they would return home from almost any event, I would ask them who all was there!  I have found that this is a good question to ask when others travel places and the answer in Bora Bora shocked me!  I estimate that 90% of those staying at our resort were on their honeymoon!  I expected most of the guests to be our age or older given the time and money it takes to be in Bora Bora.  My husband also pondered about where these couples would go for anniversary trips since it took us 30 years of married life to get to Bora Bora!  We met couples from Australia, France, Italy, and the UK as well as couples from all over the U.S. even the East Coast.  So a lot of couples traveled a lot further than we did to get there.  By the way, Bora Bora is a little more than halfway from Los Angeles to Australia.

Eating There:

Unless you eat at the hotel, you will need to get a water taxi to Viatape which is the main town on the main island.  Fortunately, the Hilton has scheduled trips to and from the town on a fairly regular basis.  The cost was $35-$45 round trip per couple, depending on the time of day you went.  This is a big plus to staying at the Hilton.  We met a group of young newlywed couples in Moorea and caught up with one of the couples again in Bora Bora.  The other two couples were staying at the St. Regis on the crescent-shaped island and did not go into Vaitape because the boat from their hotel cost over $100!  It took less than 15 minutes for us to get to the dock in Vaitape and whatever restaurant we were eating at sent a car to pick us up.  We let the restaurant know what time our return boat was leaving and they made sure we got back to the dock in plenty of time.  We always watched the sunset from our hotel before going to dinner.  Note:  next time we will go into town and watch the sunset from our restaurant so we can enjoy the view during daylight hours.

Our first night we ate at the famous Bloody Mary’s.  It is a fun place with

Bloody Mary's
Bloody Mary’s

sand floors and a list outside of the stars who have eaten there.  Dinner was ok and this was easily our least favorite restaurant, but we were glad we had the experience.

The next night we ate at Mai Kai.  Suffice it to say, that this restaurant is number two on our list of favorite restaurants in the world.  Of course it overlooks the ocean, has great soft lighting and absolutely delicious food.  My husband convinced me to try his New Zealand lamb dish and I almost made him trade with me (and I have never even been willing to try lamb before)!  We were glad we visited this restaurant early on so that we could go back again before the end of our trip!

The third night we dined at an outside table at Bora Bora Yacht Club.  It is also on our list of top ten restaurants in the world…very romantic and outstanding food.

The last night we ate at Matira Beach Restaurant.  This is a place you should definitely go to for an early dinner or lunch because the view in the daytime is supposed to be incredible.  There was a definite Asian bent to this quaint place.  Our food and service were excellent.

A couple of random tips on eating and drinking in Bora Bora:

We drank bottled water to be safe and had no problems with any digestive issues.  We had Pina Coladas at our hotel which tasted like melted ice cream…frozen drinks seemed to disappoint so we stuck with wine and beer.  Wines are mostly French and the ones recommended by restaurants were spot on for us, but we wished we had more knowledge of French wines prior to our trip.  Food, as you can imagine, is very expensive (as is everything else).  We took advantage of our hotel’s happy hour which made the drinks and some appetizers more affordable.  It is okay to eat salads in the restaurants.  The local fish seems to be Mahi Mahi.  I was surprised there weren’t more fish options on the menu and even asked about one of my favorites, red snapper, and was told that’s what the locals eat!  Desserts are awesome so don’t even think about skipping them.

Miscellaneous info:

Tahitian is the local language.  This is spoken first, then French, then English.  We did not have any communication problems anywhere.  The Hilton offers a complimentary sailboat ride for two captained by one of their pool staff.  This was so much fun and we wished we had known about it earlier in the trip so we could have done it again.  There are also complimentary kayaks and paddle boards you can use.  My husband loved snorkeling every day.  I was not as comfortable with the fish actually touching me so I observed from our dock and could see a lot of fish!   I took mosquito repellent in the form of an Off personal fan.  I took this to the restaurants and used it and had no problem with mosquitos there.  We did encounter them at the hotel anytime we went to the restaurant which is built into the side of a hill.  The night sky is spectacular!!  You might want to read up on Southern Hemisphere constellations before you go.  We saw the Southern Cross and occasional shooting stars! We went in September which is supposed to be an ideal time to visit weather-wise.  Unfortunately, due to El Nino, it rained solid for half of a day and showered briefly almost every day the rest of our 5 day trip. And speaking of 5 days, we agreed that that was probably the perfect amount of time.  We left and want to return!

Summary:

Bora Bora, my Sapphire of the Pacific Ocean, is the most romantic island I have ever visited.  While we did see two families with young children staying at our resort, almost everyone else seemed to be newlyweds.  The food and scenery are outstanding but nothing is as magnificent as the ocean, its spectacular fish and “Bora Bora Blue” color!

Bora Bora sunset

Bodega Wine Bar review

Bodega Wine Bar
6434 East Mockingbird Lane
(Southeast corner of Abrams and Mockingbird)
Dallas, Texas
About 5 years ago on a cold winter evening, my husband and I happened to find this wonderful, cozy, romantic wine bar tucked away in Travis Walk.  They had a great selection of wines by the glass as well as flights and bottles.  We equally enjoyed it as a cool reprieve on summer evenings.  Then several months after our last visit we showed up on a Saturday evening to find Bodega gone…with no forwarding address.
Fast forward to another chilly evening a few months ago (we really need to move to a tropical island).  I was searching online for a new Dallas area wine bar to try and lo and behold Bodega resurfaced!  We were so happy to check out this old friend in a new location.  And we were surprised to find it had been there for almost a year. While the new site is in a strip center compared with the chic locale of its former days, the inside was very similar: dark, romantic, comfortable furniture and an added benefit, two faux fire places.  Still owned by Amier Taherzadeh, he and his wife were the servers and the menu offered a broad variety of wines by the glass, flight or bottle.  The ad says you can bring your own bottle for a $10 corkage which is a nice benefit if you are having a small party, but we prefer trying new wines and learning about them from Amier.
They do offer meat and cheese trays and they don’t mind if you bring in food from the neighboring taco joint or Italian restaurant which is what we may try the next time.
Bodega will definitely remain on our wine bar “circuit”.  Welcome back!
Bodegabardallas.com
(214) 704 4538

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gruet Brut

Gruet Brut

I will say this upfront and remind you again that this is the best sparkling wine/Methode Champenoise for the money! (And sometimes I cringe when I say “for the money” because truly this wine is at the top of my list of favorites at any price!)  Gruet Brut easily tastes as good as its French counterparts at a third of their cost.

Gruet-Brut-75cl-BottleMy husband and I came across this gem years ago while dining at our favorite seafood restaurant in Dallas, Café Pacific.  Gruet is offered there by the glass and by the bottle. And back in the day when we are on a tighter budget, we chose this sparkler based on price. Now we return to it each and every time we dine here!  We found no need to try another.

The Gruet winery, founded in 1984, is located in Albuquerque, New Mexico and has roots from Gilbert Gruet’s Champagne house in France.  While it may seem surprising to find a winery in New Mexico, a quick study of the soil and climate reveals why the winery has been successful:  the combination of sandy soil, high elevations and dramatic daily temperature swings.  The Gruets have eight other sparkling wines including Blanc de Blanc, Blanc de Noir and a Rose and they offer several still wines as well.  (Look for an upcoming comparison review of the sparklers!)

Gruet’s Brut NV is a blend of 75% Chardonnay and 25% Pinot Noir grapes.  It is crisp with hints of green apple, citrus and yeast and provides a long finish.  Wine Spectator rates it 89.  (I’d give it a few more points than that!)  And now for the price point: $11-$13 at most wine stores, which is why we will be pouring this sparkler at our son’s upcoming rehearsal dinner!!

Apothic Red

Apothic
Apothic Red

Many of my friends ask me for a good-tasting, crowd-pleasing red wine at an affordable price point.

My answer is that you can’t go wrong with Apothic Red.

Apothic Red is a blend of Zinfandel, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet.  The prominent flavor is black cherry softened by mocha and a hint of vanilla.  I have to be honest; the mocha is what lures me to this wine along with its smooth finish.  This is a California wine that also offers two other labels:  Apothic White and Apothic Dark as well as seasonal offerings like Apothic Crush.  But Apothic Red outshines its red siblings.

In addition, Apothic has a very entertaining website…you can even have your palm read (as I did and I have to admit what they said was very accurate)!

And now for the best part, Apothic Red runs just under $8.00 a bottle at most wine stores.

Tres Sabores

There are lots of fancy wineries to tour and excellent wines to taste in Napa Valley. But if you’re looking for something unique and off the beaten track (or Highway 29) then look no further than Tres Sabores.

Tres Sabores (three flavors in Spanish) is a small, family owned winery located just west of the highway on Whitehall Lane Road on the western Rutherford Benchland.  The winery grows certified organic Cabernet, Petite Syrah, and Petit Verdot grapes, as well as olives and pomegranates.

The first time my husband and I visited Tres Sabores, we took a wrong turn and ended up part way up the mountain before being able to make a tight U-turn on the one lane road.  With no cell service, we were at a bit of a loss on how to find the winery.  Fortunately, we went back to the fork in the road where we should have gone left, but went right.  We followed the left fork and arrived at the winery for their last tour of the day.

We were greeted with a glass of crisp Sauvignon Blanc and began our tour of the ranch.  The winery is self-sustaining; for example goats are used to cut the grass.  The way the winery is run is fascinating and unusual and I won’t ruin a few of the surprises you will get.  We did get to see them de-stem the grapes, see the grapes that had been crushed and view their barrels stored in a cave.

After the tour, we tasted three more wines:  Por que No? (which is a red blend), a Zinfandel and a Petite Syrah.   All three were very drinkable for different reasons.  We bought Por que no? as a go-to, drink anytime wine.  It’s great with BBQ or pizza or by itself.  We also purchased the Zinfandel to drink with Italian dinners.  And of course, I had to have the Petite Syrah…my favorite.  It had a wonderful complexity and a long finish.

While we loved this winery, it wouldn’t be the same without their gorgeous Labs:  Moose, Duke and Boozy.  On our last visit, we skipped the tour and sat at a table overlooking the vineyards, glass of Petite Syrah in one hand while petting one of the dogs with the other.  Boozy had just had puppies five weeks before and the owner treated us to a sneak peak of the litter.  We felt extra special when we left and this winery will always be one of our favorites!